My First Mahafaly Village Encounter

After our walk, we headed a few kilometers north, to the village of Kilimary. I was so excited to see the village where Grant has been developing relationships. We were welcomed by lots of children as well as the leader (the head head guy and witch doctor). They pulled out a mat for us to sit on, and before we knew it we were surrounded by men, women, and children. They seemed happy that Eli and I were there and laughed at everything Eli did. They found Eli fascinating - one child said that Eli’s hair is strange. All the children wanted to touch him.

Not long after our arrival, the leader received a phone call. It still amazes me, after all this time, that we can be in the bush of Africa and still everyone has a cellphone! The leader hung up the phone with urgency, and informed Grant that he needed him to drive him up the road - because there was an accident. The leader was in his hut before Chris had a chance to translate! (Chris is the preacher at the Baptist Church in Tulear- he came with us on the trip) It didn’t seem like there was a question involved. We had no idea how far away it was, and why we needed to take the Fokontany (leader) there. Then, to our surprise, the leader walked out of his hut with a beat up old rifle and was securing a bullet belt around his waist. Suddenly, we were overwhelmed with confusion. Chris then told us that the leader’s son was in trouble. He had paid for a ride to Tulear, and it turned out the driver was drunk and wouldn’t refund his money. I’m sure there is much more to the story than that, but it’s the best we could understand. We kept asking why he needed the gun - but we were never given a straight answer. I pleaded with Grant not to let him take the gun, but more with my eyes than my mouth. The truth was, I was becoming afraid of this man and he seemed so angry - I didn’t want him to harm us! Grant was finally able to convince him not to take the gun and before I knew it, they were driving off into the desert and I was left alone in the village with Eli to wait their return.

I had no idea what was going on, but each minute felt like an hour. Every scenario possible played in my head. Was it a setup to rob Grant? Was there a fight going on that Grant would be put in the middle of - a fight with guns? All I could do was sit and talk to the women and children around me. It seemed so odd to me, that none of them were nearly as upset as me. It was as if their leader had headed off for the market! We couldn’t communicate well, as my Mahafaly is non-existent and their official Malagasy is barely workable. So we sat and laughed at Eli playing in the dirt, until I could take it no longer and decided to call Grant. In the bustle of the situation, at least I had thought to be left with the cellphone! Fortunately, he answered the phone - in an amused tone, as if he knew how much I was suffering. He said they were returning.

The men returned, obviously pumped full of testosterone! Aside from Grant and Chris there were 3 or 4 other Malagasy crammed in the truck. The leader settled down enough to share his story with the village people, who had somehow appeared out of nowhere! I felt as if I was sitting in on a private meeting, and couldn’t help feeling out of place. Although we didn’t catch much of the story we knew that there was a big fight between the leader and the drunk driver. He said he would have shot him, if the “vazaha” (foreigner) had let him take the gun. We heard the word “vazaha” a lot, so I know that somehow Grant’s presence played a significant role. Grant had stayed in the car when they arrived at the scene, and the Mahafaly men and Chris got out. Suddenly, a hatchet appeared (they must of snuck it into the car after they were given the stiff arm about the gun). Fortunately, they didn’t kill the drunk driver, but did scare the other passengers. They were begged to forgive the driver, and somehow they decided to leave (with the son). When they got back they reveled in telling the story - especially acting out the part of the drunk man. Chris said that the Mahafaly (and Antandroy) are known for being fierce - and proud of it! They love fighting.

After retelling the story for the 10th time and not once forgetting to blame Grant for not letting them shoot the guy (Chris says they probably would have), the conversation died down and we talked a little about their culture. We asked why their children wore necklaces (obviously some type of charm). They told us that the children who had some type of health problem wore them for healing purposes.

After that the leader had one of the boys bring a chicken (alive with its legs tied) over to the group. He then went on to tell us that the first time Grant came to visit, although they received him, they did not truly receive him. After getting to know him and his family he felt like we were a part of his family and as the head of the family (the whole village) we were now to be considered family to all in the village. He then presented us with the chicken as a gift of friendship. We felt so honored to have their acceptance. We both know that we have a lot of relationship building to do in this village, but God showed how He could take a people, overwhelmed with fears, suspicions, and superstitions and open their hearts. We have been desperately seeking open doors and open hearts - a village of peace. And look at how God is answering the prayers of his people! We are so blessed and are so encouraged by this peace offering - it means more than these people will ever know. I don’t know if it was the help Grant offered during their situation, or if it was Grant bringing his wife and son, sharing his family with them. Either way, today was a breakthrough in our relationship.

So tonight we eat our first meal in Betioky, a meal that marks not only the beginning of relationships and answered prayers, but ultimately leading people to the Lord.

(Yes-We ate the chicken!)